3D printed frame

Materials and benefits

A segmented frame uses built-in hooks instead of nails. It can be reused after removing the thread and avoids hammering. Size and hook count are configurable within the model’s constraints. Segments help fit a frame onto a smaller print bed.

Use an FDM printer (a 255 mm or larger bed is suggested), PLA or PETG filament (roughly 200–400 g depending on size), fine polyester thread and paper or tape labels. Check that each segment fits your printer.

Model parameters

final_diameter: overall diameter in mm, default 609.6 (24 inches). segment_count: number of segments, default 8; more segments can fit smaller beds. peg_count_requested: requested hooks, default 320. hook_protrusion: hook extension, default 10 mm. frame_width: ring width, default 30 mm. frame_height: height, default 15 mm. Match the generated hook count to your pattern.

Print settings

Suggested layer height: 0.2 mm, or 0.16 mm for smoother hooks. Gyroid infill: 15–20%, higher for larger frames. PLA is a starting choice; the original guide suggests PETG for outdoor use. Print segments flat. The model is designed to print without supports; inspect your slicer preview.

1. Customize the frame

Open the app’s Guides & Tutorials, choose the 3D printed frame and use its desktop 3D visualizer. Set diameter, hook count and segment count for your print bed. Adjust joint tolerance carefully: it controls how tightly the parts fit. The native app directs you to the desktop website for this tool.

2. Download the files

Download STL for the segment and Download Locking Pin for its pin. Open the files in your slicer. Segments are identical, so print the required number of copies and one locking pin per joint.

3. Test the fit

Print one segment and one locking pin before the whole frame. Start with the model’s 0.2 mm tolerance. If the joint is tight, increase tolerance; if loose, decrease it. A small test can prevent wasted time and filament.

4. Print all parts

Use Cura, PrusaSlicer or another slicer with the settings above. Verify dimensions and hook strength on a test piece before printing every segment and locking pin. Hooks must withstand moderate thread tension without breaking.

5. Assemble the frame

Slide the male and female dovetail ends together, align them and insert locking pins through the side holes. For tight joints, lightly sand or reprint with greater tolerance. The original guide suggests a small drop of super glue for a loose joint.

6. Label the hooks

Add paper or masking-tape numbers; the model does not print readable hook numbers. Start at hook 1 at 3 o’clock and number clockwise. Make every tenth or twenty-fifth number easy to see. Labels can remain for reuse or be removed after stringing.

7. Add the thread

Follow the sequence around the hooks as you would nails. Their lips help retain the thread; smooth plastic can reduce fraying. Check your chosen thread against the actual hooks rather than assuming thinner thread will always work.